Just did mine yesterday, did the same thing. Once you have the crank bolt broke loose, I
   took a pair of pliers and a long screw driver, and turned the cam pulley( left side pulley
   as you face the bike) and reposition the pulley to the original starting spot. The lable(UP)
   on right and left pulleys should be horizontal and the T1 on the crank should be back at
   the original starting position. A little tip. I took a marking crayon and put refrence marks
   on all pulleys and belts to make sure eveything would be back to the original spots.
   Worked great for me. Good luck, ride safe.

Make sure you get it right and if it you have a doubt, pull the plugs and rotate the engine by
   hand slowly and make sure there is not any interference. With the plugs out you don't have
   to worry about compression turning the engine while you have the belts off. A friend just
   bought 12 valves and 2 headgaskets for $527.00. Exhaust valves are $47 and change each,
   intake are $28 and change each. Head gaskets and tax made up the rest. This did not
   include installation. Mark the belt position on the pulleys before you start. Whiteout like
   you use when typing works well. Be sure you notice the dimple on the index wheel when
   you put it back together or the timing marks will be off. Trigger wheel is a 'best bang for
   the buck' improvement.

   ride safe
   Bob

I know there have neen a lot of these messages, but I thought my experience may assist.

   I used the 5th gear & foot brake method to loosen the crank bolt and it worked fine.

   Also I used whiteout to mark the belt and pully position (both) so there was no way I could
   get it wrong. Appenently thats what qualified mechanics do, so I was told by my mechanic
   son.

   When I removed the marker plate off the drive pully I found the locating spigot had been
   sheared off during the original tightning. To repair this I drilled out the marker plate in the
   appropriate location and got a 1/8 drill bit and broke of 1/4 inch from the end with a
   hammer and vice. Then ground it down to the correct length. It fitted quite ok and the flat
   washer laps over it so it has nowhere to go.

   The rain is pissing down here so I have not taken the valk out on the road yet. But it starts
   and idels ok..

   Bruce..

Here's a tidbit for people like me who are just mechanical enough to get in trouble. Putting
   my trigger wheel on last night using the 5th gear method and when I loosened the crank
   bolt the pulleys all moved maybe an eighth turn. No problem I thought since they all moved
   together and I went ahead with the operation. Sometime between putting the new wheel
   on and reaching for the belt I heard a small noise and then the belt marks would not line up
   anymore. Apparently it was just enough off TDC to let compression turn the left pulley
   some. After the panic attack wore off I turned the pulley back to where the belt marks
   matched up, put it all back together, gritted my teeth and hit the starter. No parts flew so I
   guess I am ok.
   Lesson learned: If the pulleys move while loosening the bolt, move them back before
   proceeding.

You will also get a noise if you have overtighened the timing belt. Position the tensioner so
   that when you push in on the long side of the belt with light to moderate pressure you can
   depress the belt 3/8 to 1/2 inch.

You can't put the drive gear on "indiscriminantly"...it's keyed to the crankshaft end. You
   could have put it on backwards with the hole for the guide plate pin engagement facing the
   rear of the bike. That would be a major problem. So if you aren't sure you have to take the
   timing belt cover back off and check. If your drive gear and cam gear index marks don't
   both line up with their respective index marks after rotating the engine over you have extra
   slack in the "pull" (tight) sides of the belts. The "pull" side is on the bottom of the right belt
   and on the top of the left belt. (Right and left from the rider's perspective). You have to
   get the belts tight to the point where one more tooth tighter just can't be made to happen
   with the gears at their index marks.

BUT!! the little cover plate with the timing marks
    : has a locator pin that sticks into a hole in the
    : front belt sprocket and Guess What? the pin
    : sheared off. From the looks of it, the plate had a
    : couple of cracks around the pin, which is probably
    : related to the shearing, and I'm glad to find it
    : now and not halfway to Sturgis.

Jim,the belt should be tensioned as follows,turn the engine over by hand and feel the
    tension at the pull side(side without the tensioner)and you will notice the belt going from
    tight to loose,when the belt becomes tight loosen the lock bolts on the tensioner and
    de-tension the belt by pushing the roller away from the belt then let the spring on the roller
    tesion the belt,do not push or help it in any way,if you do when the engine gets hot you will
    get a chirping noise indicating the belt is too tight.  Let me know if you have any further
    problems.

Get a $20 bar & needle style 3/8" drive torque wrench from Sears. Good from 0-75 LB/ft.
   That will satisfy ANY need for a torque wrench on your bike (you only need the BIG one
   if yer working on a semi wheel)

   Put your bike in gear. Pull the timing cover. Get a sharpie permanent marker and before
   you do ANYTHING else, mark your belts and pulleys with index marks with the marker.
   Make a mark that goes off the belt and onto each of the three pulleys. Mark the tensioner
   position the same way then loosen one (I think it's the left one)

   Sit on the bike and jam the rear brake (you need a helper). Squirt a little WD on the center
   nut and take it off. Swap out the wheels. Wipe the WD40 off good. and make sure you
   put all the pulleys back at your index marks matching up with the belt. Jam the brake and
   tighten. Then index the tensioner and tighten.

   Wasn't that easy? We did not even align the pulleys to their UP marks, we just used our
   own index marks. You are guaranteed not to miss a tooth if you index first.

Ken: Drive pully goes back on with hole facing out. Timming guide plate has a projection
    on back that aligns with hole in drive pully. Things might move a little when you torgue the
    bolt. Just as long as the belt does't jump a tooth you should be ok. You can turn engine
    counterclock wise just like when you started and make sure all marks still line up. Hope
    this helps.

Charlie, you are right on all counts but remember two things. (1 When the "up" marks are
   right side up the index line below the "up" on the outer side of the driven pulleys still have
   to point right at their index arrows on the outside edges of the timing belt case, and 2)
   when you have the timing belt case front cover off there is no index to check the T1.2
   mark on the plate on the front of the front drive pulley. So, get on the driver's left side of
   the bike and look at the edge of the rear drive pully. There is an index mark on it that
   aligns with a corresponding mark on the rear timing case when the drive pulleys are at
   T1.2. Voila! Put the belt on without slack, set the tension and rotate the engine over
   clockwise until that rear index lines up again. Check your cam driven gear indices to be
   sure they still point right to the index arrows in the outer edges of the case. If they do, and
   you have properly torqued everything you reassembled...button 'er up.

My book says 54 ft. lb.and 19 ft. lb for the tensioner bolts.

Before I retightened the crank bolt, I made sure all the marks that I had made on the
    pulleys and belts lined up. On the crank, make sure the timming wheel(T1), is back to the
    original starting position. Then you can torque to 59ftp the crank bolt. This procedure
    worked great for me, no problems.The instructions were off of the web page for the
    Trigger Wheel, which were very helpful.Good luck, ride safe.

The directions should mention the dimple on the timing washer lining up with the pulley...
   IMHO the hardest thing about the job is getting the new belt on .. that tensioner screwed
   me up even after i disengaged the spring...

When we did my brother's bike, we simply loosened the nut holding the pulleys and
    trigger wheel (by putting the bike in gear - third works fine by the way), removed the
    right belt, did the swap, THEN... aligned the cam pulley and crank pulley... voila...
    everything fits.
 

Second...Mark the wheel and the pulleys!!...yes, pulleys!!...i had mis-understood some
   of the postings and marked the 2 outside pulleys, what i mean is, mark
   the small center pulley before pulling the belt...it made absolutely no sense to mark my
   outside left pulley with no marking on the center one...what a goof-ball!!!

   Thirdly, read lamomnts directions and memorize!!

   Fourth, the belt comes off somewhat hard but goes on much harder imho...i took the
   spring off the tensioner just to get that thing out of the way ... otherwise my valve train
   would turn on me as i tried to monkey with the belts, got some pressure on the belt from
   the tensioner and ultimately turn that valve system a bit...THIS IS WHERE THE
   PROPER MARKINGS WOULD HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP!!!!!!

   The belt is a royal pain to put on...be prepared..(unless someone has a secret i don't
   know..of course, lately, my incompetence with hand tools seems to have been at an
   all-time high!!...lol)

   The timing marks are very accurate, there is a bit of play there, but when everything is
   perfect they all lineup great...with the front wheel in the way you may not be able to see
   the right pulley all that well on the inside but as long as it is correct on the outside, along
   with the center pulley lined up with the casing and the right pulley 'dead-nuts' on it's
   inside mark everything will go back together as it should....i tested things out by hand
   cranking the motor a few times to ensure i didn't meet any resistance....
   BTW, don't forget to hook the spring back up on the tension pulley...i already had
   enough tension on the belt i didn't feel the need to introduce any more (of course i only
   have 8k miles on the bike also...)

   Moment of truth....start her up and smile...
   install the front dust guard (yes the bolts are almost ALL different!!) and ride her with
   the biggest S%^t-eating grin you will ever have!!
   I didn't watch for any index points on the washer in regards to the dimple on the pulley ,
   but i'll take lamonts advice and not worry 'bout it!

    First; did you face the trigger wheel with the
    OUT mark facing out?  If so then lets do a quick timing belt check, put the crank timing
    mark to the T1-2 and alighn it with the mark on the crankcase on the right of the crank
    pulley(facing from the front of the engine),both cam pulleys should have the UP marks
    horizontal and facing so you can read the UP marks without standing on your head
    :^)and the cam pulley marks(slots) should alighn with the backing plates arrows,if you
    are unsure if you are off a tooth,use a thin screwdriver and line up the screw driver one
    tooth above and below the backing plate marks to see if you are in fact off.Hope this
    helps,if your sure about the timing belts perhapps the main jets in the carbs are too
    big,stock is #100 and with a K+N and pipes usually #105 to #108 will work pretty
    good depending what elevation you are at.

Installed wheel and now have about 500 miles since then. Runs great,cranks better, and
   mpg has improved. Took cover off to check belt tension and lined up the up marks on
   the cam pulleys and noticed the washer on the crank bolt with the marks on it did not
   line up with the mark on the case.
   Marked the belts so they went back in same place.The wheel and the cam pulley were
   keyed so they went back in same place, but don't recall if the indexed washer[plate]was
   keyed. Is it possible this moved when I tightened the bolt?
   It runs so good I don't want to mess with it.
   The plate or washer behind the left side cam drive oulley mark still lines up with mark on
   case.

Yes the index washer is keyed. It has a pin on the backside. I wouldn't worry about it till
   you get ready to adjust your valves.

I agree on the marking of the belt as any added measure to insure that things are indeed
   aligned is good. With regard to the belts, I layed on the ground and never took the belt
   off, as I held the belt on the sprocket with my left hand I removed the bolt from the
   crank and then the trigger wheel and had my helper hand me the new trigger wheel and I
   slipped it on and then slipped the crank sprocket back on and saw the marks were lined
   up and tightened the bolt. Simple!

More importantly, people who are contemplating the procedure should heed the advice
   of those who have done it and ensure that both pulleys get marked in 2 locations and to
   mount the washer in alignment with the dimple...